Episode 399 of I’ll Drink to That! has arrived! It’s amazing to think it has been so many shows, really. Sometimes it feels like we just got started. But 399 is here, and it features of Erwan Faiveley, the President of Domaine Faiveley and Maison Joseph Faiveley, both based in Nuits-Saint-Georges, as well as Domaine Billaud-Simon, which is based in Chablis.
Vintage generalizations are often revised after a few years, and this is especially true for Burgundies. Years that were thought to be really rustic, like the 1993 or 1988 reds, have often seen an upgrade in the minds of collectors with time, while the rich 1996s are generally less well thought of today than before. Sometimes the revision is due to the evolution of the wine in bottle, as caterpillars become butterflies with time. At other times the change in opinion concerns style, as different flavor profiles become more or less fashionable. And sometimes the reception of a vintage is driven by economics. Erwan Faiveley, who runs the house of Faiveley in Burgundy, suggests in this interview that the tumble of the global economy in 2008 and 2009 meant a bunch less interest for the 2007 red Burgundies when they entered the market for sales. Erwan is fond of the 2007s, and thinks that they deserve a second look (and taste) in general, but he is especially fond of the 07s from Faiveley. That’s because 2007 was the year he changed up quite a bit of the winemaking program at his family firm. Erwan talks through the differences, and longtime followers of Faiveley will find a lot of helpful information in this interview to better understand the last 50 years of the producer. Erwan’s father made wines very differently, and those wines in turn were a departure from the generation before. If you are curious how various stylistic modes have taken hold in Burgundy at different times, this is a great interview to follow along with. And Erwan also address quite well the current environment in Burgundy, where vineyard prices have skyrocketed in response to global demand. If you are curious why parcels in famous crus are selling for so much today, Erwan is a good person to consult about the situation, as after all he has been a frequent buyer. Episode 399 of I’ll Drink to That! addresses the changes of generations, styles, and economics that go into bottles of Burgundy.
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I’ll Drink to That is the world’s most listened-to wine podcast, hosted by Levi Dalton. Levi has had a long career working as a sommelier in some of the most distinguished and acclaimed dining rooms in America. He has served wine to guests of Restaurant Daniel, Masa, and Alto, all in Manhattan. Levi has also contributed articles on wine themes to publications such as The Art of Eating, Wine & Spirits magazine, Bon Appetit online, and Eater NY. Check out his pictures on Instagram and follow him on Twitter: @leviopenswine