Sherry time again now. Today I return to the Palmas range of aged fino wines from Gonzalez Byass, and as I already swirled the Una Palma around my mouth a few months ago, I’m now stepping up to the Dos Palmas. Aged fino is not a commonly encountered style in my experience, and it seems to go against all the the-younger-the-better conventional fino wisdom, and so it is fascinating to take a look at this little range of wines.
These particular wines were released in 2016, and they all started life as a potential component of the blend for Tio Pepe. Presumably some barrels are then selected to be held back for futher aging.
The 2016 blends were selected by Gonzalez Byass winemaker Antonio Flores, accompanied by king of the sommeliers Gérard Basset. From a solera of 150 casks, just two – numbers 86 and 120 – were pulled from the solera for Dos Palmas. Both casks had been aging for eight years, and still exhibited a thick layer of flor. The two casks were blended and bottled without fining or filtration.
In the glass the 2016 release of the Gonzalez Byass Fino Dos Palmas shows a rich, deep golden hue, concentrated but quite fresh. There is still some flor character, possibly conflated with some early oxidative-acetaldehyde character, although I would say this is much more ‘old fino‘ in style than amontillado. Alongside there are notes of salty sea-spray and olives, and I find it a little more appealing than the Una Palma. This comes through on the palate, wrapped up in more almond and hazelnut notes, as well as a confident spine of acidity. It has a punchy confidence, and while it is perhaps not significantly more complex than the Una Palma the structure seems more composed and concentrated. Good. 16.5/20 • 93/100 (November 2017)
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