Turning Tables: Michel Mina Debuts Orla at Mandalay Bay in Las Vegas

Who’s behind it: Orla is the latest Las Vegas restaurant from chef Michael Mina and his Mina Group, the culinary force behind a dozen Wine Spectator Restaurant Award winners, including his Bungalow Kitchen in Tiburon, Calif., Estiatorio Ornos in San Francisco and seven Bourbon Steak locations across the United States. Mina is partnering with the Mandalay Bay Resort and Casino, and the restaurant is taking over the space formerly occupied by Hubert Keller’s Fleur at the resort.

Why you should know about it: Mina—who was born in Cairo, Egypt, but raised in the U.S.—oversees a range of restaurant concepts, including four others in Las Vegas. But Orla stands out for the chef’s deep exploration of Middle Eastern and Mediterranean flavors, calling back to his ancestry. Corporate wine director and Master Sommelier Jeremy Shanker has created an impressively large wine list focused primarily on Mediterranean wineries, including lesser-known producers across Lebanon, Santorini, Croatia, Sicily and Corsica.

When it opened: Orla opened Jan. 16, 2024.

[article-img-container][src=2024-03/turning-tables-orla-interior-030724_1600.jpg] [credit= (Anthony Mair)] [alt= The interior of Orla by Michael Mina, with dark blue walls, warm lighting, and greenery][end: article-img-container]

The culinary approach: A three-course prix-fixe menu is available for the table at $97 per person; it includes a handful of starters and entrées, with sides to share and two shareable desserts. The à la carte menu is also designed for sharing and is broken into several sections: cold and hot mezze dishes, grains and pastas, fish and grilled meats and accompaniments.

Many dishes tap into Mina’s heritage and have been years in the making, according to Shanker. “When I see the food come out, I’m reminded of the dishes that the chef was coming up with in 2018 and 2019,” Shanker told Wine Spectator, pointing to the evolution of one dish in particular, Mina’s Egyptian-influenced stew of mulukhiyah (jute mallow) with tomato-shellfish and leeks.

Shanker also highlighted the New York strip prepared with hawaij (a Yemenite spice blend) and served with matbucha (a Moroccan dish of cooked tomatoes and red bell peppers), charred scallions and white yam—a new take on steak and potatoes.

What’s on the wine list: Orla opened with 1,600 labels on the wine list assembled by Shanker, who has worked with Mina Group since 2015 when he joined the team at the now-closed RN74 in San Francisco. (In 2017, Shanker became lead sommelier at Mina’s flagship San Francisco restaurant, Michael Mina, which closed in 2021.) Shanker’s program is a treasure trove for wine lovers, with vertical depth and regional breadth, especially from countries around the Mediterranean, including the Levant.

[article-img-container][src=2024-03/turning-tables-orla-dishes-030724_1600.jpg] [credit= (Anthony Mair)] [alt= Plates with macaroni Béchamel with mushroom duxelle and crab fregula alongside a glass of red wine][end: article-img-container]

In addition, California is well represented, particularly Napa Valley. These wines range from newer vintages made by Shafer and Caymus to older and rarer bottlings such as 1980s Grace Family Cabernets.

Aficionados of aged wines can find an extensive library of Montrachet from Burgundy and older Bordeauxs like a 1947 from Pichon Longueville Lalande and 1949s from Cheval Blanc and Latour. Shanker’s list also features older bottles from Chateau Musar in Lebanon’s Bekaa Valley, including 1997 and 1975 blends of the Obaideh and Merwah grapes. “In the right vintage, it’s one of the great wines of the world,” said Shanker.

The design: New York firm Parts and Labor Design created an inviting and earthy space at Orla. The dining room…


Source : https://www.winespectator.com/articles/michel-mina-debuts-orla-at-mandalay-bay-in-las-vegas

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