Turning Tables: Pastis Makes Its Way to Washington, D.C.

Who’s behind it: On the heels of Pastis Miami’s opening, restaurateurs Stephen Starr and Keith McNally are bringing French bistro concept Pastis to the nation’s capital. It joins the acclaimed Starr Restaurants portfolio, which includes Wine Spectator Award of Excellence winner Pastis in Manhattan, as well as Restaurant Award winners Le Zoo in Bar Harbor, Fl., Le Diplomate in Washington, D.C., and Buddakan in New York. McNally is the founder of the original Pastis location and the owner of Balthazar, a cornerstone of New York’s Soho neighborhood.

When will it open: Pastis D.C. is set to open for dinner in January 2024, with lunch and brunch services to follow.

What’s on the wine list: Starr Restaurants corporate wine director Mikayla Avedisian-Cohen has put together a wine program of about 300 labels, representing some 3,500 bottles in the cellar. Beverage manager Ian Cruz (formerly at Pastis Miami) will oversee the list day to day. “The wine list is going to be what I consider a beautiful fusion of the [original] restaurant, Pastis in New York, and the Pastis in Miami,” Avedisian-Cohen told Wine Spectator, adding that the list is likely to evolve and grow. Appropriately, France is the star, with picks from the Loire Valley, Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne and farther afield.

[article-img-container][src=2024-01/restaurant-news-turning-tables-pastis-dc-lobster-salad-011124_1600.jpg] [credit= (Pastis)] [alt= The lobster cobb salad at Pastis D.C.][end: article-img-container]

While Pastis locations consistently highlight classic French wine regions, said Avedisian-Cohen, “I think that the D.C. palate is really excited by things that can reach off the beaten path.” Among wines from smaller regions and lesser-known appellations, that includes white, orange and red Coteaux Champenois; wines from French regions such as Jura, Savoie and Corsica, and little-known appellations like Burgundy’s St.-Bris and Basque Country’s Irouléguy. “The vibrance and the sentiment and the energy of Washington is, ‘What can you tell me about this wine? What can I learn?’” Avedisian-Cohen observed. “[Washingtonians] seem thirsty for wine but also thirsty for knowledge.”

Rarer wine gems: The program features vertical depth and horizontal breadth. For instance, Avedisian-Cohen taps six vintages from Burgundy’s Château des Quarts and multiple cuvées of Egly-Ouriet Champagne. Guests can also expect selections from wineries such as the Rhone’s Yves Cuilleron and Bordeaux châteaus Batailley, Pavie and Rauzan-Ségla (the second wines for the latter two). The list also has significant selections of large-format bottles, as well as half-bottles.

[article-img-container][src=2024-01/restaurant-news-turning-tables-pastis-dc-croque-madame-011124_1600.jpg] [credit= (Pastis)] [alt= A croque madame sandwich at Pastis][end: article-img-container]

The culinary approach: Pastis fans will find dishes on the D.C. menu such as bouillabaisse, croque monsieur (or croque madame, for egg fans), Wiener schnitzel, lobster frites and escargot. “There will definitely be some new items,” Avedisian-Cohen added.

The design: The 250-seat restaurant is housed in an 11,000-square-foot former warehouse and, as at other Pastis restaurants, the dining room (designed by Ian McPheely of Paisley Design NYC) is decked in classic bistro trappings: red banquettes, a zinc-top bar and white tiles. Vintage mirrors advertising Pastis’ namesake liqueur were crafted by designer Robert Padilla, who created similar mirrors for Pastis in New York.

The neighborhood: The new Pastis is located within D.C.’s Union Market district, not far from Brentwood Hamilton Park and a range of hotels and restaurants. That includes Starr’s Best of Award of Excellence–winning St. Anselm,…


Source : https://www.winespectator.com/articles/restaurant-news-pastis-makes-its-way-to-washington-dc

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