In 1986, Cuvaison Estate in Napa employed a young Portuguese intern who declared: ‘My first wine is going to be a monster, but in 20 years I’ll be making fine wines.’ That intern was Dirk Niepoort, and the journey he predicted – evocative labels from Robustus (his first 1990 Douro red) to Charme (launched in 2002) – reflects not only this now fêted fifth-generation Port and winemaker’s progress, but also a region-wide direction of travel.
See Sarah Ahmed’s pick: 20 top Douro reds
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