Vinography Unboxed: Week of 1/21/23

Hello and welcome to my weekly dig through the pile of wine samples that show up asking to be tasted. I’m pleased to bring you the latest installment of Vinography Unboxed, where I highlight some of the better bottles that have crossed my doorstep recently.

I know that last week I said that the Sauvignon Blanc that I tasted from Cantina Kurtatsch in Italy’s Alto Adige region was pitch perfect, but this week I really mean it, as I tasted that wines “big brother,” the cooperative’s top-of-the-line single-vineyard rendition from the vineyard known as “Kofl” or “the knoll.” It’s really everything I want in a Sauvignon Blanc, with electric acidity, minerality, and a purity of flavor that makes you want to gulp it.

Sticking with the Italian vibe for a moment, I can recommend the Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo from Masciarelli that, like most wines of this type, hangs somewhere between rosé and red wine in character. It’s fruity and fresh but doesn’t lack in structure or weight.

Back in California, but perhaps along the same stylistic lines, I’ve got two lighter red wines to recomend to you from my friends at Two Shepherds Wine. Their Pinot Meunier has a wonderful tonge-tingly brightness to it, while their old-vine Carignan leans earthy and savory even as its bright fruit reminds me of purple SweetTart candies.

Likewise, both the Pinot Noir and Syrah from Darling Wines this week (the second such pair I am recommending) are stony and crunchy, though I prefer the Syrah again this week. The Mariah Vineyard Pinot Noir is just a touch too herbal for me. It will appeal to those looking for distinctly savory Pinot Noir, but I wish it had fewer stems in the mix.

Of the various wines that Ranch Brand Wine and Spirits, a large portfolio of invented wine and spirits brans, has sent me, I think I like this Sirin Cabernet Sauvignon the best, as it comes across as quite fresh and bright, with well-integrated wood and excellent acidity.

Lastly, I’ve got a Petit Verdot from Muse Vineyards to recommend from Virginia’s Shenandoah Valley, which has a wonderful briskness to it. With reasonably well-restrained tannins and not too much extraction, this wine also has enough acidity that I think it will likely blossom in the coming years for those patient enough to age it.

Notes on all these below.

Tasting Notes

2020 Cantina Kurtatsch “KOFL” Sauvignon Blanc, Südtirol Alto Adige, Italy
Pale greenish gold in the glass, this wine smells of sweet passionfruit and green apple. In the mouth, passionfruit and kiwi flavors mix with gooseberry and lemon oil as electrically bright acidity dazzles the palate. Intense and mouthwatering with just the faintest hint of salinity. Fantastic, and archetypally aligned with what I think of as ideal when it comes to Sauvignon Blanc. 13.5% alcohol. Score: around 9.5. Cost: $38. click to buy.

2022 Masciarelli “Villa Gemma” Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo Superiore, Abruzzo, Italy
Pale to light ruby in color, this wine smells of strawberries and sour cherry with a hint of pink bubblegum. In the mouth, bright sour cherry and ripe strawberry flavors have a lightly tannic grip and bright, juicy acidity that leaves a tingly feeling on the front of the tongue. 14% alcohol. Score: around 8.5. Cost: $18. click to buy.

2021 Two Shepherds “Hopkins Ranch” Pinot Meunier, Russian River Valley, Sonoma, California
Light garnet in the glass, this wine smells of red berries, flowers, and chopped green herbs. In the mouth, sour cherry and raspberry flavors have a wonderful juicy brightness that lingers with flavors of orange peel and kumquat in the finish. Fantastic acidity leaves the tongue tingling a bit along with a faint chalky texture. Organically farmed grapes fermented with native yeasts. Spends 8 months in a neutral barrel, bottled unfined and unfiltered. 12% alcohol. 100 cases made. Score: between 8.5 and 9. Cost: $36. click to buy.

2020 Two Shepherds “Trimble Vineyard…


Source : https://www.vinography.com/2024/01/vinography-unboxed-week-of-1-21-23

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